I've climbed with many tools before but have never felt such a solid tool as the cobra. In my opinion Greg you should go with the cobras. I absolutely love Grivel 'pons and I don't think you'll go wrong if you get a set. I've never used BD 'pons other than they're Contact 10 points. I picked up the 14's for steeper ice and mixed climbing. I use the 12's for snow, easy ice and mild mixed alpine routes. If you go with those two choices, or others in the extreme range, you'll probably need to get another set for alpine use.Īs for 'pons, I have G12's and G14's. You wouldn't, for example, want to buy Nomics or Fusions unless you plan on only climbing mixed and hard ice. I'm not saying you can't do that with other tools, but I'll let someone else chime in for that. So, what I'm getting at is that I have successfully used the BD Cobra's on steep ice, hard(?) mixed, and steep snow. If you want, you can remove the Fang and Strike (finger rests) for better plunging in very hard snow, but I found I didn't need to on moderately hard snow. I used them on the mixed ice/snow pitch and they even plunged well enough on the upper flanks to the summit.
I've climbed WI4 with them, M6, and have used them on the North Face of Longs Peak. Wow, what a world of difference! While yes they're expen$ive, they are a great all arounder. After climbing a year with BD X-15's, I upgraded and picked up a pair of the new Cobra's. He himself climbs mostly hard mixed and ice and so uses the BD Fusions. I think Dan was alluding to the versatility of a tool like the BD Cobra's. Ice Climbing is something I've been wanting to do for a while but just gotten around to.Maybe this year.ĭan the Mountain Man wrote: From what you are descrbing though, the best tools I can think of would be the new Cobras.Ha! You've finally seen the light. Good luck!! DanThanks, Dan This is a really good explanation for those of us who are looking to get into Ice Climbing. Mess around with some tools in stores, and some places, (such as Bent Gate) will rent out tools to you, (if you end up buying them there then, they will give you and additional 10% off.) Other than that, go to the fest and demo some sweetness. By far the best tool you will use, but then again, at around 3 Bens a piece, that is quite a load to drop for the first set. simple leash system) and work great for plunging as well. From what you are descrbing though, the best tools I can think of would be the new Cobras (ouch, that hurts the wallet.) Equally proficient on AI, WI and mixed, these tools are easy to modify (i.e. As for the main topic, I have to agree with Kirra. an M8 = 5.12- ish) but mostly stands on its own.
And, for shits and grins, the M scale (mixed) is designed to grade routs that climb rock and ice (sometimes more rock than ice!) It has been somewhat compared to the YDS scale (i.e. There is yet another scale the NEI (New England Ice) scale that grades climbs back east, although not widely used else where. Mess around with some tools in stores, and some places, (such as Bent Gate) will rent out tools to you, (if you end up buying them there then, they will give you and additional 10% off.) Other than that, go to the fest and demo some sweetness.ĭan the Mountain Man wrote: Water ice is short for waterfall ice, stuff that forms seasonally down at lower elevations (stuff like Vail and Ouray.) AI (alpine ice) can be more year-round, although there is a definite season for this type of ice as well (such as a climb like the Smear of Fear in RMNP that ahs a short window.) It also describes ice at higher elevations.
an M8 = 5.12- ish) but mostly stands on its own.Īs for the main topic, I have to agree with Kirra. Water ice is short for waterfall ice, stuff that forms seasonally down at lower elevations (stuff like Vail and Ouray.) AI (alpine ice) can be more year-round, although there is a definite season for this type of ice as well (such as a climb like the Smear of Fear in RMNP that ahs a short window.) It also describes ice at higher elevations. Robert 560 wrote: Water Ice? Doesn't it all start as water? I'm sooo confused.